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So, What's in the Masters?

After the good feedback received from my previous article on POWDERY checks I thought I would  make public the 27 check points that examiners use to judge the skill of an advanced driver when they take the Masters driving test with IAM Roadsmart.

I realise doing this could make me vulnerable, but it does provide an insight into the testing involved should anyone be interested in improving their own driving skills to make them a safer and more observant driver.

LPOV

After the good feedback received from my previous article on POWDERY checks I thought I would  make public the 27 check points that examiners use to judge the skill of an advanced driver when they take the Masters driving test with IAM Roadsmart.

I realise doing this could make me vulnerable, but it does provide an insight into the testing involved should anyone be interested in improving their own driving skills to make them a safer and more observant driver.

I passed the Masters test in November 2017 after previously passing the advanced test in 2013. We travelled a distance of around 50 miles over approx. 2 hours covering A, B and C class roads with dry and bright conditions. 

Throughout the 2 hour test, I was required to give a verbal commentary of what I observed and what difference that made to the way I drove and planned the journey. 

To obtain a Distinction in the masters, each of the check points in the image must score a 1, but as you see there are some 2’s, so my grade was a Pass. I was told that there is no shame in this as to get a masters qualification is no mean effort.

Masters score sheet

Also, in the image of the pass certificate, are comments about why I did not achieve a 1 for certain checks. I am actually encouraged that the main reason is because I drove the test being more client focussed to ensure the drive was smooth with no rapid acceleration, braking or sharp cornering - the problem is, to achieve a masters distinction, requires just that - to demonstrate that I can drive at the limit.

The Limit Point of Vision (LPOV) is a very useful system to enable driving to the limit but also being able to stay safe. 

LPOV

The LPOV is the farthest point along a road to which you have a clear and uninterrupted view of the road surface....” ... It is the point along the road ahead where both sides of the carriageway appear to meet and form in a point; this is the limit of your vision. The LPOV moves as you progress along the road and the speed you go is determined by the distance you can see to be clear and the distance within which you can stop.

The points graded as a 2 were on planning, hazard management, use of gearbox, braking, signals, cornering, overtaking, restraint and progress. My learning for the next time I take the masters test is to be more aggressive, but for now, I take comfort in that my priority is to give my clients a smooth and progressive journey when they can feel totally safe and comfortable at all times.

So there we have it, I passed but was too focussed on safety to be able to achieve the distinction - goes that is not too much of an issue really!

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Have you done your Powdery checks?

Following on from my previous article, where I outlined the major phases of the system of car control

“I P S G A”, the Information part flows through each phase and is a continual source of input and output. 

Indeed there are many ways of giving information to other road users and pedestrians. Among them are those I have listed below:

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Following on from my previous article, where I outlined the major phases of the system of car control

“I P S G A”, the Information part flows through each phase and is a continual source of input and output. 

Indeed there are many ways of giving information to other road users and pedestrians. Among them are those I have listed below:

  • use of direction indicators

  • hand signals

  • headlamp flashes

  • horn

  • position on the road optimised for safety, visibility and correct routing

  • speed appropriate to the hazard being approached, attained via explicit braking or throttle control (engine braking, also known as acceleration sense), always being able to stop in the distance you can see to be clear on your side of the road

You may be able to think of others!

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Recently you may have seen on my social media posts and also on LinkedIn that I have had the privilege of testing a big Audi A8L (long wheelbase). It was during one of those drives when we were visiting family in Somerset, that I was reminded of another set of basic tests that should be used before actually driving off in a car, especially when driving a car that you are not used to.

This will become clear as we progress through this article and yes, as you would expect, there is a funny side to this!

Firstly, IAM Roadsmart has a set of tests that are used before even getting in the car. These come from the Police Federation, when the police pursuit driver is not necessarily getting into the same car each day. So this is where P O W DE R Y comes into play.

Propulsion

Does the vehicle have enough fuel be that Diesel, Petrol or nowadays electrical charge for the journey ahead?

Oil

There are many oil reservoirs and (if applicable) they need to check regularly. Vehicles will have some or all of the following:

  • Brake fluid

  • Engine oil

  • Clutch fluid

  • Gearbox oil

  • Power steering fluid

Water

There are also various water reservoirs and (if applicable) they also need to check regularly.:

  • Engine coolant

  • Screen washer - these is often forgotten and is a legal requirement

  • Battery

Damage

If your vehicle has been parked overnight on the street or in a public car park area, it may have suffered damage caused by other road users. It is wise to know what damage (if any) has been caused before driving off. Making a quick check of the below areas is fundamentally important:

  • Wheels for damage - the can be avoided by parking with your wheels straight to avoid other road users clipping them

  • Tyres for slits and punctures

  • Bodywork for knocks and scratches - you may find the other piece of evidence on the car parked next to you!

Electrics

Check the functioning of exterior lights, indicators and brake lights. Also check interior lighting.

Rubber

  • Tyre pressures should be correct to the manufacturers recommendations - when were these last checked?

  • Tyre tread depth should be a minimum of 1.6 mm across 3/4 of the breadth of the tread and around the entire circumference

  • Remembering that tread depth of less than 3 mm is less efficient in dispersing water

  • Windscreen wiper rubbers - are they worn? Would be best to change them as soon as any wear is identified

  • Hoses under the bonnet - check for condition and tightness of clips.

You

Are you fit to drive? Most crashes are caused by human error. Be sure you are fit to drive. Not only does this refer to the alcohol limit, but also, are you too stressed or just too tired?

So there we have the basic checks before driving off - I admit a lot of them are obvious, and when you are only driving your own car, most do not need to be done before every journey, but they should all be done at least on a regular basis.

Cockpit Drill

So this is where we come to the funny point when I was reminded about the use of a cockpit drill in Somerset in the Audi. 

These points are required to be spoken out before taking the IAM Roadsmart Advanced test, but it is also good to remind yourself of them in your mind at least before driving off. Some of the below points may or may not be necessary due to the increase of driving aids fitted as standard on many modern cars. 

  • The car has ABS brakes and power steering but no other significant driver aids.

  • My POWDERY Checks have been completed and I am satisfied that they are all correct.

  • The Handbrake is on, gear lever is in neutral.

  • My seat and head restraint are positioned correctly.

  • I’m checking the mirrors are positioned correctly and I am checking all the doors are closed, by looking down the external body lines of the car using the mirrors.

  • I’m switching on the ignition and I am checking that all the warning lights that should be on, are on.

  • I’m now checking that all warning lights which should go out, have gone out.

  • I’m starting the engine and checking that all warning lights have gone out except the parking brake, which I am checking now.

  • I’m doing a static brake pressure test, which is good.

  • I am checking the seat belt for correct operation and that it is properly fastened. I’m also checking that passengers have their seatbelts on. In UK, there is a legal requirement that seat belts must be used in the rear as well as the front seats.

  • The ventilation is set to me and my passenger’s requirements.

  • Today is a bright, clear Friday afternoon and I’m expecting some commuter traffic later in the drive. There has been no rain for a while so I’m not expecting any standing water.

  • I do not require the use of lights or wipers at this time.

The above is an example of what is spoken as the Advanced test is started, but obviously the details on some points, are changed depending upon what is happening that day!

So from the above cockpit drill, which is the point that I would have done well to remember I hear you say?

One of the great features that many modern cars are fitted with these days is a button to press on the boot lip that gently shuts the boot. You’ve guessed it - point 5!

My wife and I were about to return home after a lovely time is a park with the family. I was already in the drivers seat of the loan Audi A8L and my wife placed a few more items in the boot, pressed the button and got in the car.

I drove off through the car parking area of the park and other members of the family were looking at us strangely. I slowed down, stopped and opened my window as my daughter said - do you normally drive off with the boot fully open Dad?

The button hadn’t closed the boot as the wrong button was pressed. Totally my responsibility, so I got out and rectified the problem.

Now, had I done the cockpit drill, that would not have happened - it’s good to be reminded sometimes of such basic checks. Also, had I been the chauffeur that day to my wife, I would have loaded and closed the boot myself, opened the door for her and closed it before getting into the drivers seat. That’ll teach me for having a day off!

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From Irresponsible "Boy Racer" to Professional Chauffeur


During my travels and I am sure you all do, I notice varying skills of driving. It sometimes still shocks me at how some people can be when they squeeze their car into gaps when travelling at often excessive speeds even over and above the speed limit.

We have seen on YouTube

During my travels and I am sure you all do, I notice varying skills of driving. It sometimes still shocks me at how some people can be when they squeeze their car into gaps when travelling at often excessive speeds even over and above the speed limit.

We have seen on YouTube clips of people overtaking and only just making it avoiding a collision by a whisker - but to be on the receiving end of this in real life ourselves is something quite different.

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Thankfully I have not been involved in a massive accident myself, but I have been a victim of a lorry driver falling asleep at the same moment as I was overtaking him at 1:30am on the M25 at 70 mph! Again thankfully, the damage was not severe, although inconvenient, and amazingly my car held straight and no one was actually hurt.

In my younger days, I did have quite a number of accidents, that I can now look back and say that I could and should have avoided. My father was so patient with me in those days, even when I wrote off a vehicle that he loaned me. So, yes, I am ashamed to admit that I have been the cause of accidents in the past and I even drove much in excess of the speed limit when returning from Cheddar, Somerset to our home at Dauntsey Lock, near Lyneham, Wiltshire - indeed, I used that route as a time trial to beat my last time in my Mini 1000.

So, from my experiences and observing other driving standards, I thought I would write a further  blog that attempts to explain what is going through my mind as currently, I drive in excess of 1,000 miles per week for clients.

I P S G A the System of Car Control

This can be best explained by considering what is know as I P S G A, the System of Car Control as taught by IAM Roadsmart and the Police Federation Roadcraft. It was first devised at the Police College at Hendon over 60 years ago and has formed the core of the Police Rider’s Handbook or Roadcraft since then.

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The 'System' is a systematic method of driving which, if used correctly, will substantially reduce the risk of a driver being the cause of an accident. A detailed explanation of the System is given in Roadcraft, the police driver's manual, and it is to this book you must refer if you want a thorough understanding. 

There are five phases of the System which must be considered on the approach to any hazard. A hazard can be the presence and/or movement of any vehicle or pedestrian, a road feature such as a roundabout or a climatic feature such as a sudden downpour of rain.

The five features are:

  • Information

  • Position

  • Speed

  • Gear

  • Acceleration

The Information phase overlaps every other phase of the System.

In the description of the Information phase Roadcraft adds the sub-acronym T.U.G or Take-Use-Give as an indication that we have to do something with all that information.

Take in information by looking at traffic signs and looking at the position and movement of vehicles and pedestrians. Be aware of observation links i.e. the hazards associated with what can be seen e.g. parked vehicles, a pedestrian flagging a taxi, a garage forecourt, a pedestrian walking to the front of a bus or roadside telephone poles formed into a curved line in the distance. Use your mirrors at any point in the System but particularly before changing position, before slowing or after changing gear i.e. a final check behind before the hazard is reached.

Use the information you have gathered by making a plan to deal with the identified hazards and making contingency plans for dealing with the unexpected e.g. car doors opening, a taxi suddenly stopping, a car shooting out of a roadside garage, a bus suddenly stopping or a car coming fast out of a bend ahead.

Give information to other road users e.g. using your indicators to inform them that you are going to change position, using your horn or flashing your headlights to let them know of your presence. 

Position your vehicle to re-enforce any other form of signal.

Position yourself so that you can pass hazards safely and smoothly. Give a good clearance when passing parked vehicles, cyclists or when overtaking moving vehicles. Follow the advice given in the Highway Code for positioning on the approach to roundabouts. Position yourself when approaching bends in national speed limit areas so as to maximise your view of the road ahead - taking account of oncoming/following vehicles and nearside hazards. Good observation will allow you to make the most effective use of available (legal) road space e.g. taking a clear lane at traffic lights on a dual carriageway. Good positioning smoothes progress.

Speed: 

Obtain a safe speed to negotiate the hazard. Reduce speed, if need be, by either easing the pressure on the accelerator pedal (deceleration) or by braking. Whatever method is used it is essential to lose speed smoothly.

Gear: 

Once you have the right speed for the hazard, engage the correct gear for that speed. The aim, almost all of the time, is to have a clean separation between braking and changing gear i.e. no overlapping. Slight overlapping when going downhill into a corner or a bend is acceptable PROVIDED you do the gear change when most of the braking has already been done.

Acceleration: 

Consider accelerating away from the hazard after taking account of your speed and the position/movement of other road users. The accelerator pedal is NOT an on/off switch to be suddenly pressed to the floor when a hazard has been negotiated. Use the pedal smoothly. 

Summing Up

The emphasis I personally place on driving in each of the above phases, is making the experience smooth, so I plan ahead and aim to slow down gradually, so as to maximise the comfort for my passengers and minimise the stress that can be caused by sudden or erratic movements of my car.

Obviously when necessary I can brake suddenly in an emergency and I am always prepared to do that, but that would be the exception, as planning ahead can mostly avoid those times.

I became a qualified Advanced Driver though IAM Roadsmart in February 2013 and qualified as  Master with them in November 2017 ensuring that I maintain the same high standard after then 4 years.

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To continue to be qualified as a Master, I now need to retake regularly which I am committed to do. In fact when we are able to explain and take on professional chauffeurs, they also will need to become a Master Driver - we are intent on making sure that the same high driving standards are maintained, which is now become part of our branding.

Is there more to learn?

For those interested, I plan to write a few more blogs focussed on driving safely and how to prepare - do watch out for those in the coming weeks/months ahead. Life is all about learning, no matter what sphere we are in - we can always be a better version of who we are and what we do. Onwards and upwards they say!

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Snow Driving

So, while I write this blog I am in my office looking out upon the incredible snow fall we in the UK are having right now. We are based at Royal Wootton Bassett, Wiltshire and the snow that has fallen in the past couple of days is more than we have seen for more than

So, while I write this blog I am in my office looking out upon the incredible snow fall we in the UK are having right now. We are based at Royal Wootton Bassett, Wiltshire and the snow that has fallen in the past couple of days is more than we have seen for more than 10 years in this area, so it is making quite an impact.

Jaguar XFS

While out walking our dog, I have also noticed a few cars out and about but I have to ask how urgent is their journey?

I have every admiration for the emergency services and how they attend desperate people when they become stuck in snow and worse, when accidents happen which they will.

As a professional chauffeur, I have to make the decision every day we have weather like this, whether to drive or not to drive - thankfully, this is not very often. The decision I make, is all about safety and I never want to let any client of mine down, but safety must come first, even if I have to say to a client that I am not travelling today because of the road conditions.

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To make that decision, I know my clients would understand, as I also know that they value their safety let alone their life.

Accidents happen and it is not always about ourselves, but can be caused by others too. 

This leads me onto my tips for driving in the snow which I have done and do, depending upon how bad and deep it is. There are actual courses to teach drivers how to do this and books have been written, so the advice I now give, is by all means not the A-Z knowledge.

  1. If your journey is not absolutely necessary and/or life and death that you do it, then quite simply - DON’T

  2. It is well known that 4 wheel drive cars are best in these conditions, followed by front wheel drive, so if like mine, your car is rear wheel drive, think carefully before going out

  3. Before setting off, ensure all windows are clear and all snow is cleared off your vehicle - it is illegal and dangerous to other road users to drive when there is a load of snow on your roof, that can blow off into the path of other road users

  4. Your lights must be clean and number plate clearly visible

  5. If you do venture out in very bad conditions, then make sure you have inside the car, an emergency kit of de-icer and ice scraper, torch, snow shovel, warm blankets, boots, as well as first aid kit, water & food supply and your mobile phone is fully charged.

  6. It is best that your car has a full tank of fuel as well, so make that your first stop should you have to go out

  7. Onto driving - drive with care, even if the roads are treated

  8. Keep well back from other road users

  9. The advice on stopping distances is quite simply in the rain allow twice the normal distance, but in icy conditions, this can be ten times greater than on dry roads, so plan accordingly

  10. So, what are the normal stopping distances:

    1. 20 mph - 12 metres

    2. 20 mph - 23 metres

    3. 40 mph - 36 metres

    4. 50 mph - 53 metres

    5. 60 mph - 73 metres

    6. 70 mph - 96 metres

  11. Use the technical helps on your car, like

    1. Winter Mode, which optimises stability of the vehicle to suit slippery conditions, when grip is reduced.

    2. Dynamic Stability Control controls the vehicle stability in critical driving conditions - helps to correct understeer or oversteer

    3. and others - know your car

  12. So, it is important to know your car and drive accordingly. Most cars have ABS now, but you should drive taking care without relying on ABS, but good to know it is there to help braking in an emergency

  13. When approaching a junction or bend, plan well before, so as to avoid sharp braking

  14. Do not accelerate quickly when moving away, but pull away in a higher gear like second or third instead of first, gradually, when safe to do so

  15. Finally patience - do not rush any part of driving when in icy and snowy conditions and respect all other road users

I hope the above is helpful, it all comes down to valuing your life and others - too many accidents happen on unfit roads and I have heard so many stories of what people call a necessary journey, when the truth is, the journey can more often than not, wait.

Safe travelling all.

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